Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

Today the town's name is Volgograd - Uncle Joe's namesake disappeared in the late 1950s when the anti-Stalin campaign was in full swing. However, the town itself, built after the Master Plan of the late 1940s, still remains Stalingrad - the influence of the dictator can be discovered in every architectural ensemble.

The town upon the lower Volga was founded as a fortress against devastating Tartar raids in the beginning of the 15th century; soon after Tsaritsyn (the original name of the place) became the hottest trade spot in southern Russia.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

Conditions were more than perfect: the Volga River provided opportunities for all-season cargo traffic to and from Persia, while the water route to Moscow and other Russian towns was open eight months a year.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Precious furs, wood, wheat traveled down the Volga; spices, silk and other goods arrived here from the south. This commercial activity thrived until the 1917 revolution, and was bolstered by the immense wheat and meat production in the surrounding steppes. It's no surprise, though, that during the Civil war of 1918-21 Tsaritsyn was bitterly fought for. In the 1930s the city was named after Stalin, who headed its defence in 1918.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

the 1942 Battle

The historical turning point for Stalingrad is its defence in 1942-43, which became the first major battle of WWII in which Nazi troops were defeated. Strategically, the German armies wanted to occupy the Caucasus, which provided the Soviet Union's only source of oil and nickel. Stalingrad was a secondary goal of the attack. But conquering the town from the first approach proved impossible, and the Nazis, commanded by Friedrich Paulus, made a fatal error. They pressed their attack in the face of ever-strengthening Russian defenses. The Germans were quickly cut off in the city and besieged. A total of 22 divisions were imprisoned, and surrendered several months later. Stalingrad, though, was totally destroyed during intense street fightiung, thus the opportunity after the war to build the town anew. The city of Stalin would become the city of glory - the ideal Soviet city as envisioned by its architects and engineers.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

A Very Soviet Town

This vision was of a city with plenty of wide, open streets and vast squares, richly-decorated buildings, and triumphal columns and arches everywhere. From a bird's eye view, the central part of Stalingrad looked like a huge cross, with two axis representing War and Peace. The crossing was at the main square of the town, the site of government buildings. The  construction of a Pla­netarium, devoted to the demonstration of special mechanics, looked like a typical Empire-styled city cathedral - actually, it was a kind of civil Soviet cathedral. Two entrances to Stalingrad, the river and railway stations, were decorated with triumphal arches - the newly born city was itself a monument of military glory. In 1952, near Stalingrad. the gate of the Volga-Don channel appeared, complete with huge Stalin and Lenin monuments.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

The overall appearance of the town is very common. One object, the memorial House of Pavlov, however, is quite fascinating . Before the WWII battle, it was an ordinary apartment block. During the siege of 1942, the building housed 11 machine-gunners led by Captain Pavlov. His men defended the house to the last soldier. building was neither restored nor demolished, and became a war memorial. By the same token, Pavlov's house is among the very few pre-war examples left in the city.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

For the last two decades, hundreds of new buildings have gone up in all parts of the town, but have not replaced the Stalin-styled houses.

What has changed

Since then, little has changed in the center of Volgograd, though Stalin's statue upon the channel has disappeared. Among the must-see constructions is the gigantic military memorial on Mamayev Hill, including the massive statue, called "Mother­land," with her sword piercing the sky. The statue is nearly 70 meters high and is almost terrifying to first-time visitors. In its broad shadow is the memorial cemetery and monuments to particular heroes of Stalingrad.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

Another interesting thing to see in Stalingrad is its public transportation system. Speed trams that have just appeared in Moscow have been in action here for the last three decades. The whole system looks similar to regular trams, except for tunnels and underground stations. The latter ones look just like ordinary metro stations, but old Czech Tatra trams run on the tracks instead of trains. Russian-made tram cars were tried but rejected for the system; they proved to be too noisy and shaky.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

The overall image of its old namesake persists: Volgograd is still very  much Stalingrad, the town where the word "narrow" and "tight" are unheard of. Wide avenues, huge columns, military ornaments with flags and stars, decorated with swords and guns. This was the way Soviet people depicted ideal life - at least in Stalin's times. The city's style remains unmatched in Russia, as nothing comparable was created afterwards. The point is not in its construction, but in style.

Grand ideas like this are what is lacking now - and Stalingrad reminds us that we once had them.

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

[Olga]

To get there

Stalingrad is most easily accessed by rail. Trains start from Paveletsky railway station (remember that your ID will be required to buy railway tickets). Buses are also an option, but of much less comfort. But mind the tickets are much cheaper, and IDs are not required. For those who prefer driving, Stalingrad is not too easy to get to. The road is to Astrakhan (M6 highway). One should leave Moscow through the M4 motorway and then turn for the Astrakhan arrow. The total distance is 961 kilometer. Note: in winter the road is for experts only, due to ice and snow.

By Anton Razmakhnin

Moscow News

[Olga]

Stalingrad (Volgograd)

Stalingrad (Volgograd)