‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

27/09/2007 | Moscow News,№38 2007
‘Moscow Versailles'

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

‘Moscow Versailles'

Arkhangelskoye, a royal collection of palaces and parkland just outside Moscow, is known for its beautiful gardens as much as for Prince Yusupov's art collection. Although some of the statues have already been boxed up for winter, and - like so much of Moscow - there is a perpetual "work-in-progress" feel about the place, the relative peace and freedom of the surroundings more than makes up for it.

Princess Zinaida Yusupova

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

‘Moscow Versailles'

The original church of the Archangel Michael, which gave the estate its name, is situated on a cliff above the old Moscow River, affording perfect views of the surrounding countryside. With the gold and red of autumn now in full glory, it's worth making the trip out of town to enjoy the show. Although the galleries are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, the park and (equally important!) the café are still open every day.

church of the Archangel Michael

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

Start and end: Bus stop or car park just outside the main gate. Distance: 4km - allow plenty of time to roam.

Getting there: Buses 151, 549 and ‘marshrutkas' mini buses run regularly from Tushinskaya Metro. Or you can take the nippy 49k Marshrutka or buses 520, 524 or 541 from Pavshino station on the line from Rizhsky Vokzal. If a mere stroll round a park is not enough, try walking from Pavshino railway station (see below).

1. Buses 151 and 524 take passengers to the "Sanatori" stop to the north, but otherwise you will arrive through the main gate on Ilinskoe Chaussee. It is worth checking the return bus times on the back of the yellow sign next to the gate. Departure times can be half an hour apart in the middle of the day and while the semi-circular bus stop with the green bench is charming, the main road isn't. Once inside the gate (50 ruble park entry for Moscow residents), a path to the immediate right called "Teatro Gonzago" leads you through the woods towards a view of the Theater across the road. Although currently under restoration, it is still possible to see in the genius of architect Osip Bove, the designer of the Bolshoi Theater, in the stuccoed portico. Bove was assisted by the Italian artist Pietro Gonzago, some of whose original works remain intact. The company of serf actors who performed here was well known in the nineteenth century (part of the reason may have been that Prince Yusupov allegedly ordered the serf actresses to strip for the entertainment of his guests).

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

2. Turning away from the theater and walking into the park, visitors will pass the temple-monument to Catherine II. Beyond this, venture onto the terrace of the palace for a stunning first glimpse of the territory. It is probably thanks to these remarkable vistas across formal French-style parkland that the palace has been compared with Versailles. From here, descend onto the lawn and walk towards the Stalinist Sanatorium ahead through the tree-tunnel; these green pergolas, currently covered by yellowing linden leaves, are another characteristic feature of the park. At the end you emerge onto another terrace at the top of a steep slope down to the river. Make sure you take in the view, a green sweep that is rare in Moscow, before descending to the right and following the path past the sports' club. At the end, turn left onto the waterside path.

the temple-monument to Catherine II

‘Moscow Versailles'

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

3. Keeping the water on your right, walk along the banks of the lake and enjoy the tranquility. These waters were once part of the Old Moscow River. When the path ends, turn towards the cream-colored watchtower and then take the path to the right leading through a wooded ravine. Ignoring the path to the left, you will come out under a bridge storehouse (another Osip design - you can venture inside if you purchase a 20-ruble ticket from the nearby cashier). Behind you are the "Holy Gates," modeled on a Roman triumphal arch; it is definitely worth detouring through here up the avenue to the lovely white church

Holy Gates

‘Moscow Versailles'

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

4. Back on the main path, walk through the colonnade (an unfinished family mausoleum containing a huge unframed Tiepolo), and back through the gardens at the top of another ravine. From here you can either go left to the café (whose blue tiled stove, red silk sofas and thick mushroom soup for 200R might seem doubly inviting by now) or to the adjacent shop, or turn right and head back across the park, between the "Kontorski" wing (where what remains of the art collection is currently housed) and the Rose Pavilion, to the palace, surrounded by statues of lions and sphinxes.

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

5. If you still have energy, there is an amusing circular path through the woods to the north, constructed - and still used - for exercise by people staying at the Sanatorium. An ancient information board near the cafe outlines a variety of signed "routes" around the estate. After this you can hop on the 541 bus and visit the beautiful church of St Nicholas near the sister estate of Nikolskoye-Uryupino. The classical houses by the lake are being heavily restored, but it seems that some visitors cannot resist squeezing through a gap in the fence by the bus stop and stroll past.

‘Moscow Versailles'

[Olga]

‘Moscow Versailles'

Walking route from Pavshino Station (about 8km): Head south away from the station (left if facing direction of travel out of town), with the tower blocks giving way to old dachas and orchards after the main road, and continue until you reach the lake. Turn right along the water's edge and follow the fisherman's path all the way along, under the main road and over a plank bridge and on, keeping as close to the water as you can. This whole stretch is a mixture of grim and delightful. It is marred by the inevitable picnickers' rubbish, pylons and the Rizhskoye Shosse roaring across the horizon, but if you look more closely it is a naturalist's paradise: herons hunch on the sand banks amid innumerable wild flowers and ancient fruit trees. At the end of the lake, you come out on a road near an electricity sub-station. Going a little way to the right, you can pick up a track to the left between the allotments. Keep following the paths between gardens and heading towards the tower blocks ahead until you come out on the main street of Arkhangelskoe "village." Turn left along this to the end where, across the road, an avenue leads diagonally right towards the back entrance of the estate.

[Olga]

Wedding in Arkhangelskoye

‘Moscow Versailles'

‘Moscow Versailles'

By Phoebe Taiplin

Special to The Moscow News

 

Family friendly features

1. Catching the rattling "Elektrichka" train with its wooden seats can be quite fun. If you set off from Rizhsky Vokzal, there is a railway museum and you pass some interesting sights on the way.

2. Although you are not supposed to walk on the formal lawns, there is plenty of space to run about on the grass near the river, as well as the tree tunnels and ravines to play hide and seek in.

3. The cafe looks posh, but is actually pretty tolerant and not too pricey by Moscow standards - they do great chocolate blini covered in cream and caramel sauce for 120R. But if this still sounds too stressful, the shop next door has everything you could need for a picnic including hot chocolate for take away.

4. There are more than two hundred statues in the gardens so counting them could be fun... and if the French paintings don't appeal, there is a new "Technical Museum" 500m - or one bus stop - back up the road with a small, but very shiny collection of vintage cars that some kids (and parents) might enjoy.