Novgorod: Democracy's Native Son

[Olga]

By Anton Razmakhnin
Moscow News

Novgorod: Democracy's Native Son

Five hundred kilometers between Moscow and Novgorod can be easily covered now either by car or by train. However, six or seven centuries ago this distance required a week-long journey on river boats - and it was an even greater distance as far as life and ideology of two towns were concerned. As time went on, Moscow conquered the ideology and power of Novgorod; but even now some special aura exists in Russia's former northern capital. Some call this the air of democracy and liberty; whether or not that's true, Novgorod is beautiful in any case, and surely worth a contemplative visit.

[Olga]

Though the name of the town means "New Town," Novgorod is the oldest major Russian city. People have been living here since the 6th century AD, and the trade settlement appeared no later than in the 9th century. The place where Novgorod now stands is strategic: the Volhov  River was a key part of the busy trade route from the Baltic to the Black Sea. Novgorod was just the place to control the route and to develop trade with foreign merchants. The specialization of the town determined the type of rule: Novgorod became a merchant republic.

Novgorod: Democracy's Native Son

[Olga]

This type of rule, similar to one of medieval Venice, Genova, Hamburg, can surely be called democracy, though there was nothing like an equal opportunity society. The richer the citizen, the more powerful his voice - that was the rule. Another key power was that of spiritual authorities: the Arch-bishop of Novgorod was a very influential person. But one thing should be mentioned: all citizens of Novgorod could participate in the so-called veche - an archaic type of plebiscite. One should not take this procedure too seriously - as a rule, important decisions were first made among the most powerful persons and only then put to the vote. Still, the procedure played its important role of establishing civil society among the inhabitants of Novgorod. The symbol of the town's independence and democracy was the veche bell that summoned people to vote.

[Olga]

Be it for good or for bad, the Novgorod-type democratic rule (even if it was only quasi-democratic) ended when the republic was defeated by Moscow. The process of conquest took about a century: in 1471 the independent Novgorod forces were beaten by Moscow troops in the battle of Shelon. Seven years later Novgorod signed the "merger agreement" under the aegis of Moscow. At the time, Ivan III of Moscow allowed Novgorod to be ruled as per the town habits and custom; but in 1570 the grandson of Ivan III, the famous Ivan IV the Terrible, made his famous Novgorod raid. The first Russian tsar was a clinical paranoiac, and somehow he became convinced that a separatist rebellion was being plotted in the town. Actually, some merchants of Novgorod were in league with their German and Polish counterparts, and even with governments of German and Polish states. But the devastation and destruction that Ivan the Terrible caused to Novgorod ended the brilliant medieval history of the town; almost all powerful families of Novgorod were either killed, or taken to Moscow to serve the tsar. Chronicles say that after mass executions on the bridge across the Volhov (a pedestrian bridge now stands at the place) the water ran red for days. At the time the famous summoning bell was thrown off the bell-tower and delivered to Moscow as a kind of  "prisoner." It is said by most historians that this bell was taken to the bell-tower of Ivan the Great in Moscow, but in the 17th century it was re-cast. At the same time the legend says that this bell was melted down near the town Valdai on the way to Moscow, and that became the start of the famous Valdai jingle-bells.

[Olga]

Today the most amazing thing about the place is that brilliant antique buildings (the fortress and separately-standing churches) stand among ordinary Soviet buildings of 1950-80s. This is the result of the Second World War, when Novgorod was first taken by Nazi troops and in 1944 retaken by the Red Army after massive bombardments. While the most valuable buildings were restored from ruins, old ordinary houses were mostly demolished. So, the town can now be also interesting for those interested in Soviet architecture. But still, this is not Soviet architecture that attracts people to Novgorod. What attracts is the town's mood, ideal for meditation and thinking.

The town fortress is called Detinets (also known as the Kremlin, but this name was not widely used by ancient inhabitants of the town). The existing walls and towers of the Detinets were built in 1484-90, several years after Novgorod was first conquered. From the bird's eye, the Detinets looks oval - quite a strange thing for a Russian fortress, but at the same time natural. Walls look their best from the pedestrian bridge across the river; the elegant bell-tower that stands close to the walls, once served as observation turret, and now, destroyed and re-erected several times, it makes a perfect accompaniment to the rigid walls of the Detinets. One of the towers is now converted to a nice restaurant - a must-visit in Novgorod (warning: pre-booking is necessary). Inside the fortress there are several buildings worth mentioning, and the St. Sophia cathedral is doubtlessly No. 1. This cathedral, built from 1045 - 1050, is the symbol of Novgorod: where there is the St. Sophia, there is Novgorod, as the town inhabitants used to say in bygone times. Among St. Sophia's six domes the main one is covered with gold, others with white metal.

Novgorod: Democracy's Native Son

[Olga]

Novgorod: Democracy's Native Son

A small sculpture of dove "sits" on the cross of the golden dome; the legend says that this dove miraculously appeared on the cross several times after being thrown out by builders, until the miracle was approved by priests. The cathedral, one of the oldest stone buildings in Northern Russia, provides much more stories, be they funny or tragic - one just needs to explore it. Sunday morning is the best time to enter the St. Sophia, as the liturgy takes place, with great St. Sophia chorus and myriads of candles lit before the icons.

The second place to meditate at in Novgorod is the town's wooden architecture museum Vitoslavlitsy (don't worry, most Russians also mispronounce the word). Here, about three dozen old-school wooden countryhouses, small churches, windmills etc. stand to illustrate the traditional way of living in the surrounding region.

Novgorod: Democracy's Native Son

Novgorod: Democracy's Native Son

Close to the museum stands the St. George monastery, with its huge cathedral: once the monastery also served as a fortress to have the control upon the Lake Ilmen.

After one sees the Kremlin and Vitoslavlitsy, one should simply walk through the town. This is a totally unique feeling; walk through the pedestrian bridge from the Kremlin to the Merchants' Bank, look at the area's numerous old churches (every corporation of merchants built its own). See some 19th century ordinary living houses and shops, explore the Stalin-era four- and five-storied living clusters; look at the theater building, which is surprisingly avant-garde. Maybe the destiny of Russian democracy will become a bit clearer after such meditation.  n

TO GET THERE

Novgorod can be reached either by train or by car. Trains leave for Novgorod from the Leningradsky station every evening at 9:50 p.m.; it arrives to Novgorod at 5:50 a.m. The return train starts from Novgorod at 9:10 a.m. and arrives in Moscow at 4:52 a.m. Though the arrival time is quite uncomfortable, in winter using trains can be recommended, as the motor way can prove difficult. Audacious drivers can use the M10/E105 highway: 500 kilometers of variable quality road can be driven in 7-8 hours, no less. After such drive five or six hours of relaxation are usually necessary, and there remains the possibility that ice and snow could make your journey even more difficult.

By Anton Razmakhnin
Moscow News

[Olga]

The Wayfarer visits Novgorod - an ancient Russian town which could have been Russia's capital if history had taken another turn. This trip is all about history. Mark Ames does some winter diving for historic artefacts and examines the archaeological museum and remains of the ancient trade market. He tries to make the traditional Russia shoes called lapti and enjoys a nice meal in a Russian style restaurant.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_nsJEiWwoE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_nsJEiWwoE</a>